Tretji dan in naprej / Third day and beyond

3. dan: Bhul Bule-Jagat Ta dan se je začela malo bolj resna hoja navkreber. Na cilj smo prišli sicer utrujeni, kakšnih težav s kondicijo pa nismo imeli. Spali smo v značilnem "hotelu": lesena bajta, v pritličju kuhinja in dolga miza s klopmi, v prvem nadstropju pa skupna ležišča. Domačini spijo kar v kuhinji na tleh. Dimnikov nimajo, dim se torej vali iz ognjišča v kuhinji skozi špranje v stropu v spalnice. Spat nismo mogli, dokler so v kuhinji še nalagali na ogenj, saj bi bili povsem prekajeni. Zato smo ob večerih posedali po jedilnici, včasih kakšno zapeli, nekajkrat so nas tudi zabavali naši nosači, ki so nam zapeli svoje komade. Večerjali smo dal bat. Ena članica naše skupine je padla na stranišču in si odrgnila precej kože na roki.	Day 3: Bhul Bule-Jagat More serious uphill hiking started today. We were tired by the end of the day but none of us had any serious problems. We slept in a typical "hotel": a wooden barrack that had a kitchen and a long table with benches on the ground floor and dormitory beds on the upper floor. The locals sleep on the floor in the kitchen. As there are no chimneys, the smoke goes through the cracks in the ceiling into the dormitory. Therefore we couldn't go to sleep until they put out the fire or we would have been totally smoked. So we spent the evenings sitting in the dining room, sometimes we sang and sometimes our porters sang. We ate dal bhat. A member of our group fell in the toiled and skinned a good part of her hand.
4. dan: Jagat-Dharapani Pot se je nadaljevala navkreber, vedno manj je bilo riževih polj, gozda pa tam tudi ni, ker so ga domačini večino posekali za kurjavo. V Dharapaniju je bilo najboljše stranišče: zgrajeno nad prepadom, tako da ni smrdelo. Tokrat se nobena članica naše odprave ni poškodovala na stranišču, zato pa sem imela jaz smolo, ker mi je spodrsnilo in sem stopila v človeški iztrebek. Fuj, fuj, fuj, na srečo je bil blizu potok, v katerem sem se potrudila kar najbolj oprati.	Day 4: Jagat-Dharapani The trek continued upwards, there were fewer rice fields and there was also no forest because it has been chopped down for firewood by the locals. Dharapani had the best toilet: it's built above a precipice and it therefore doesn't smell. This time none of the members of our group hurt themselves in the toilet, but I had an incident. I slipped and stepped into human excrement. Yuck, yuck, yuck, fortunately there was a stream nearby where I tried to wash the best I could.
5. dan: Dharapani-Chame Končno smo imeli prvo umivanje v toplem vrelcu ob poti. Presenečeni smo bili, ko smo po vseh manjših vaseh, ki smo jih videli do tedaj, prišli v Chame, ki se razvija v pravo mesto. Zgradili so stanovanjsko naselje z dvonadstropnimi kamnitimi bloki, vendar tudi te novejše stavbe niso imele dimnikov, opazili smo, da se dim vali skozi okna. Prvič nas je zvečer pošteno zeblo, saj je bil hotel ravno tak, kakor tisti v nižini: okna so bila brez šip, polkna so se slabo zapirala, veter je pihal skozi špranje v stenah. Preden smo šli spat, smo morali spoditi kokoši iz spalnic.	Day 5: Dharapani-Chame At last we were able to wash ourselves in a hot spring along the way. After passing countless small villages along our way we were surprised to see that Chame is developing into something that resembles a city. There are new two story brick apartment houses where we were quick to notice that they didn't have chimneys because smoke was coming out the windows. This was the first time we were really cold at night. The hotel was exactly the same as the ones lower: no glass in the windows, the shutters barely closed, wind was blowing through cracks in the walls. Before we could go to sleep we had to chase away the chickens.
6. dan: Chame-Pisang Ob poti je bilo vedno več gozda, saj smo prehajali v višine, kjer živi manj domačinov in je bilo zato manj gozda uničenega. Čez dan je bilo prijetno toplo, ko je sonce zašlo, pa je bilo zelo mrzlo. Večerjali smo dal bat in spet ena se je spotaknila na stranišču.	Day 6: Chame-Pisang As we continued our way higher up, there were fewer inhabitants and therefore the wooded areas were much more preserved. It was nicely warm during the day and it became very cold when the sun went down. We ate dal bhat and another one had a fall in the toilet.
7. dan: Pisang-Manang Obiskali smo jugoslovansko alpinistično šolo pri letališču pred Manangom, kjer so nas z veseljem sprejeli in postregli s čajem. Zvečer si je ena članica naše skupine zvila gleženj, ko se je vračala iz stranišča. Tokrat pa je bilo bolj resno, gleženj ji je otekel, tako da se je morala vrniti s konjem in trekinga je bilo zanjo konec.	Day 7: Pisang-Manang We visited the Yugoslavian alpine school near the Manang airport where they warmly invited us in for tea. That evening one member of our group sprained her ankle when she was returning from the toilet. This time it was serious, her ankle was swollen and so her trek was over. She returned on a horse.
8. dan: Manang Dan smo preživeli v Manangu zaradi aklimatizacije. Dopoldne smo se zapodili na bližnje vrhove (4000 metrov), popoldne pa smo gledali festival v sosednji vasi. Opazili smo, da so bili hribi poraščeni s planikami.	Day 8: Manang We spent the day in Manang to acclimatize to the altitude. We spent the morning ascending nearby hilltops (4000 meters) and the afternoon watching a festival in the neighboring village. We noticed that the hills were full of edelweiss flowers.
9. dan: Manang-Churi Lottar Prvotno smo nameravali že ta dan na Thorong Phedi, vendar smo po priporočilu avstralske zdravnice, ki že dve leti živi in dela v Manangu, etapo razdelili, da smo imeli še dodaten dan za aklimatizacijo. Očitno smo se odločili pravilno, saj nihče v naši skupini ni imel težav z višinsko boleznijo, medtem ko smo videli kar nekaj drugih pohodnikov, ki so se morali vračati zaradi težav z višino.	Day 9: Manang-Churi Lottar Initially we planned to  go to Thorong Phedi, but then we listened to the advice of an Australian doctor who has been living and working Manang for two years to allow an extra day for acclimatization. It was obviously a wise decision as none of the members of our group had altitude sickness while we met a few other trekkers who had to return due to problems related to altitude.
10. dan: Churi Lottar-Thorong Phedi Hoje je bilo samo za dve uri, ostanek dneva pa smo poležavali na travi, oblečeni v bunde, kape, rokavice. Sicer je bilo kar prijetno, dokler je sijalo sonce. Kratkočasili smo se tudi tako, da smo v rečni strugi iskali fosile. Kar nekaj smo jih našli. Po sončnem zahodu smo se prestavili v bajto, kjer je bilo nevzdržno: dokler so bila vrata zaprta, smo se dušili v dimu, če so vrata odprli, pa nas je grozljivo zeblo. Tudi ponoči ni bilo prijetno, predvsem nas je zeblo.	Day 10: Churi Lottar-Thorong Phedi The day's trek lasted only two hours and we spent the rest of the time sprawled on the grass, dressed in full winter gear including hats and gloves. It was quite bearable while the sun was up. We also amused ourselves by looking for fossils, there are many around. After sundown we entered the hut where it was unbearable: while the door was closed, we choked on smoke and when they opened the door to air the place it was freezing. The night was also uncomfortable due to the cold.