Navigating Phnom Penh traffic

Motorcycles on the road

Hiring a tuk-tuk is hassle-free around here. The drivers typically don't overcharge and they carry maps so that if they don’t speak English I can point to where I want to go. I learned the Khmer words for numbers two and three to be able to communicate the fare. That’s all I really need because short rides are $2 and longer rides are $3. (Actually, I also learned the words for numbers one and four to be able to follow steps in my aerobics class.)

I don't mind riding the tuk-tuk but I still decided to buy a bicycle to get around. Having my own means of transportation gives me more flexibility. I bought a used bicycle that has seen better days. They assured me at the shop that if I have any problems with it, I should come back and they will fix it.

Having my own transportation means that I also get to navigate the traffic on my own. It’s terrifying, although I’m slightly less afraid of the traffic while on the bicycle than when I go on foot. No one walks around here. They say that if you see a Cambodian walking, they are going over to their motorcycle. They go everywhere on their motorcycles, even to the shop around the corner or through the vegetable market.

Motorcycles at the market

I went for a few practice runs on my bicycle to get the feel of being part of the traffic. The official traffic rules such as driving on the right side of the road, stopping for a red traffic light and so on are obeyed only if there is a policeman in sight. The unofficial traffic rules say that motorcycles don’t have to stop – ever – because isn’t it kind of difficult to stop when you’re on two wheels? Why bother stopping? So they just go. I have to be constantly vigilant of what is going on 360 degrees around me at all times because vehicles can come towards me from any direction.

With some practice I figured out that the best thing to do in traffic is to go with the flow, it’s not that bad. There is always someone going the same way I'm going so I just try to follow.